Vineyard Diary – Winter 2010

The vineyard has now been pruned and mulched, in preparation for the new growing season.  We've had some big frosts, so most things are a little brown - and YES the grass isn't growing and can spend more time playing golf and doing maintenance than in the vineyard!  Its a time for the log fires and good country cooking - naturally with plenty of good Wombat wines to accompany the food!

You may have noticed various industry news items concerning wine oversupply, and how the national wine association is encouraging vineyards to be pulled out or reduced.  This appears to mainly apply to the larger commercial vineyards, but to some extent everyone is caught up in the surplus.  Wombat has done its part - we reduced our vineyard area by 17% last season, which worked very well through the 2010 vintage - we had no issues with the quantity and quality of our grapes this year.

I'm now preparing for the next season.  We bottled our 2010 Rose and Semillon last week, and look forward to bottling the Chardonnay soon.  We will also bottle the 2009 Shiraz over the next 6 weeks -  all of which will go into the cellar at Wombat to allow for some bottle maturation to occur.  We have ordered our organic soil improvements (fertilisers and mulches) and they will be applied before the end of August to the vineyard.  We continue to practice Integrated Pest Management practices, and make annual investments to improve the soil microbiology at our vineyard.  I think this year I'll tinker with brewing up some organic teas to spray on the vineyard as the season rolls out.

I thought I'd also leave my notes on the 2010 Vintage for you to peruse!

What an amazing vintage 2010 was for us.  We experienced a long and often hot spring and early summer, with bud-burst occuring approximately 1 week earlier than is normal at our vineyard.  Good rains at Christmas were very welcome, although they went on for a week longer than we really needed.  Everything was, as they say, green and growing!  The grapes were down a little in size this year, with reduced yields in the Semillon and Shiraz vineyards.

January saw us dropping bunches in all vineyards.  We did this to improve the ability of the vine to rippen fruit, and to manage our yield down so that the fruit would rippen earlier than if the vines carried their full load.  After the Christmas rains we experienced our first challenge - some botrytis resulting from bird pick in the Chardonnay.  We spent over a week selectively dropping any infected bunch, and I'm happy to say we were successful in producing a great result in the Chard as a result of this investment.

As the vines ripened we noticed that sugar levels in the berries were rising faster than we traditionally have experienced, and we began to make preparations for an early pick.  Our picking contractors were surprised when I booked in the Shiraz for picking before the end of January, but as time passed many other vineyards began to clamour for picking resources, so I was very glad I had booked ahead!  We picked the Semillon vineyard on Friday 22 January, the Chardonnay on Saturday, and the Shiraz on Wednesday 23.  I have never experienced such a compacted and early picking period, but subsequent rain events made me very thankful that I had got the grapes off! 

I declared the vintage a success after my new winemaker, Jeff Byrne (at Audrey Wilkinson) had tasted the resulting wines and was very positive about their quality.  February 2010 - it rained - and rained - so nothing much happened after our post harvest sprays, other than extraordinary vine and grass growth!  

Cheers

Ian and Trish Napier

  

A VIGNERON’S NOTEBOOK

                                                                                              

INTRODUCTION

Aerial view of Wombat CrossingBefore you start reading this, let me warn that when you look at Wombat Crossing Vineyard, you will see an example of what happens when you turn your hand to something that has long attracted you (i.e. drinking and enjoying wine) but challenges you to make the next step to vertically integrate your drinking habit into wine production. 

Many have trodden this path; all have learnt a lot in the process of gaining the knowledge of viticulture and wine; some have carved out a new niche in the modern history of the valley and established successful brands and businesses. 

It’s still early days at Wombat Crossing Vineyard. I have started small, and I now know enough to plan to always stay small. My aim is to make attractive, top shelf wines that exhibit the varietal and terroir-induced characteristics of single paddock wines grown in Pokolbin, in the Lower Hunter Valley.

For winemaking, instead of building my own winery at the vineyard, I chose to work with the best winemakers in the valley. We benefit from their expertise and small batch equipment to hand make our wines. We invest in the finest French oak barrels obtainable. In all, we seek to make the best wine possible from our vines, paying bespoke attention to detail in all parts of the growing and making processes.  We bottle each vintage under Stelvin closures to ensure that the quality of the finished wine lasts for many years, and that there is no bottle variation or adverse cork impact on the wine.

When I first started in this business I was a bit confused by the way things were described.  It was a little like leaving a familiar city and landing somewhere overseas – some of the things I saw and experienced made sense; others were totally alien.  I put together this section to give you my perspective on what a new vigneron learns, and how that relates to the wine we produce at Wombat Crossing Vineyard.

The vineyard is located in an area that was once known as Patricks Plains, but which has more recently been named as an extension of the Pokolbin area.  It was once covered by trees and grasslands, and as recently as the 1990’s was home to dairy and beef cattle, kangaroos and other natives (such as wombats).  A dirt road connected Broke Rd to the New England Highway and to The Old North Road. 

Subdivision and clearing then occurred. The vineyards that had been established in the first part of the last century by families such as Elliots, pointed the way to further good grape growing areas. The fourth Hunter Valley Grape Rush then occurred with many of the surrounding areas cleared and planted to grapevines. 

Our vineyard is underlaid by the Belford dome of limestone, and is characterised by three different soil types. The Hermit Block Shiraz vineyard is planted on sandy clay loam, over clayey sand, and sandy clay over grey-brown with red mottle clay.  The Creek Semillon block is planted in sandy loam over sandy clay loam, and the Malloch’s Block Chardonnay is planted on sandy clay loam over medium clay and sandy clay loam.

John Malloch established the vineyard in the 90’s, clearing and preparing the land and planting Semillon (1996) and Shiraz (1997). John did the really hard yards, as anyone who has planted and nurtured young vines will attest. He was bitten by the bug to go into wine grape growing. John sold his vineyard to me in 2003, but stayed on in the wine industry, first through supervising me in my apprenticeship at Wombat for 3 vintages, and now as the manager of viticulture at another vineyard in the valley. I am indebted to John for my practical knowledge of viticulture.

 

 

Like John, my move into the vineyard and the industry was a big change after my career in a large consulting practice.  I exchanged the airplanes, the boardrooms and the offices for the tractor, the vineyards, and the wine experience of Pokolbin. A bit of golf more regularly at Cypress Lakes also helped!

While I was apprenticed under John, I went to TAFE on a part-time basis at Kurri Kurri for 3 years. Peter Wendt and Steve Gell ran the classes, and gave everyone the necessary theory, along with their practical experience from years of managing vineyards and making wine.

From 2004 we focused on improving the processes, infrastructure and vineyard health at Wombat Crossing Vineyard. We planted a Chardonnay vineyard in 2004, and began to right-size the Semillon vineyard.  We began to make wine in Vintage 2005 (Shiraz), with production of all varieties well under way by Vintage 2007.

I embarked on a major building program in 2007, which saw a new look and many new facilities created at the vineyard location.

We opened the cellar door in 2007 for functions, and focused on building a small and exclusive Wine and Field club. 

In 2009 we downsized our vineyard by 17%, with an eye to the ever reported wine glut and my need to introduce two neaw fairways to allow us to build a 9 hole, par 3 practice golf course on the property.

  

WHAT HAPPENS IN THE VINEYARD AND THE WINERY?

Each year the vines go through several phases, from bare stems to bud burst (in spring) to flowering, which leads to the set of tiny grape bunches, through their growth and the maturing of the grape bunches on the vines. 

As the vines develop, we apply a minimalistic and organic-centric program of various sprays to the leaves to protect the vine from pests or diseases during the growing season.  The vines are also fertilised by foliar sprays and through the drip irrigation system.  The drip irrigation system is also used (depending on the weather) to supplement natural rain in order to manage the vines growth and health.

At Wombat Crossing Vineyard, we aim to restrict the yield to 3.6 to 4.8 Tonnes of grapes per hectare, to improve fruit quality and help with earlier ripening. During winter we prune, then thin bunches and manage foliage to acheive this objective during the latter stages of the year.

From November the grape bunches continue to develop until they go through veraison (turning from green to a golden green colour for the Semillon and Chardonnay vines, or red for Shiraz) in late December or early January. The sugar and flavour of the grapes gradually increases as the summer sun provides the energy for the leaves to ripen the grapes.  When the flavour reaches its optimum, and the sugar levels reach about 10% (Semillon), 12.5% (Chardonnay) and 13.5% (Shiraz) the grapes are ready to be picked.

Vintage refers to the time of the year when the grapes are picked in the vineyard. You see large groups of pickers and mechanical harvesters at work in the early morning or late during the night. Vintage dates are also used to differentiate each year’s production of wine.  Vintage in the Hunter Valley usually begins around mid January, and is almost always over by late February. Each vintage season is very different, depending on the amount of rain, wind, sunshine and heat, pests and other natural occurrences or calamities that affect our property.

 

Shiraz before Crushing

 

White wine is made by first settling the juice in stainless steel tanks, then introducing yeasts to ferment the juice. Semillon ferments in the stainless steel tanks; while the Chardonnay is pumped (a process called racking) to different ages of French oak barrels to fully ferment out and then lie on lees for some time.

Shiraz goes through a somewhat different process, where after 20 hours, 15% of the initial lightly coloured juice is run off into small old oak barrels to ferment into Rose or Saignée Shiraz. The remaining Shiraz must and juice is left in contact with the skins for some time, before a light pressing to release the juice.  This juice is fermented in open fermenters, settled and racked off to different ages of French oak barrels for maturing.  Our Hermit’s Block Shiraz is left in the barrels for 18 months, before finishing and bottling.  It is then aged a further 6-36 months before release, depending on the development and ageing potential of the wine.

Once the grapes are picked, the vines remain active for some time building a store of energy in the roots to support the early growth of leaves and canes that occurs next spring. The leaves eventually fall, the sap slows and moves down to the roots, and the pruning season begins. You will see workers moving through the vineyard cutting the canes back to 4 x 2 bud stems on each arm, to restrict the wild growth of the vine and prepare the dormant vine for the next season’s growth. Pruning is a critical task in the vineyard, as it determines one component of the grape yield for each vine. 

Across vintages you will see some variation in each of the wines, and begin to think about what makes these wines all taste somewhat different. Grape variety is the first differentiator, but then comes the location of the vineyard, (for us a constant) its soil, age and viticultural practices, the microclimate, the quality and the input cost selection during the winemaking process.

Making an individual paddock boutique wine requires the Almighty and the vigneron to manage a number of critical variables in order to produce a great vintage wine.  They say that great wines are made in the vineyard – which means that the winemaker can only do so much to ‘fix’ problem grapes.

Each wine area in Australia has different soils and climate, with possibly different grape varieties to compliment the natural factors of the terroir. This is why the wines made from specific vineyards in different winegrowing regions in Australia have individual and different tastes. Even in Pokolbin there are different climatic and soil conditions as you travel from one vineyard to another. And some vineyards have older grapevines; while others have relatively young vines. This introduces further taste differences to the finished wine. Since each season’s weather is very different, seasonal climatic variations make a huge difference around the extremes to the quality and quantity of wine produced, with very wet or very hot and dry years producing major vintage variations. Even things like bushfires impact on the vintages’ aroma and taste.

The main variables that make wines different, and which we try to manage or respond to as best we can from year to year, are:  

 


Vineyard
Vineyard soils and micro climate
Vine variety suitability to the area, and their health and age
Viticultural practices relating to soil conditioning and micro-biology health, pruning, pest and disease management, fertilisation and monitoring, and general sward management
The rainfall, sunshine, heat, wind and other Acts of God experienced during the year
Picking timing
Management of the picking process

 

Winemaking
Management of the winemaking processes and risks during the time the grapes come into the winery and leave as bottled wine
Quality of oak, ages used, tannins used and the nature of the  fining process 
Blending and selection of wines to be incorporated into the finished product

Cellaring
Sufficient ageing of newly bottled wine under appropriate temperature control



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